3 questions for . . . Didier Grumbach President of the Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode

Home > 3 questions for . . . Didier Grumbach President of the Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode

At the end of Parisian Fashion Week, Didier Grumbach, the Fédération Française de la Couture President for 15 years, shares his thoughts on Paris, the fashion capital.

The Semaine des Créateurs (Designers Week) closed a few days ago and marked the end of the excitement of the fashion weeks. How does Paris compare with the other fashion arenas – London, Milan and New York?

Since the 1930s the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture has had a successful record of determining the collections’ calendar. Today 100 brands from 23 countries are part of the Parisian womenswear calendar.

We wondered if the event would suffer or even end because of Internet. But, in fact, it has become increasingly spectacular and necessary. By rewarding creativity and expertise and by mixing well known brands with new international talent, Paris holds a central role. (…) In comparison, London and Milan are national events. Milan is 95 percent Italian; London is a British fashion festival; and New York offers a limited selection. And yet, fashion show scheduling should be exciting; and it’s the choice of participants that makes it successful.

How do you explain the increasing number of foreign showrooms (English, American, Belgian, Korean, Chinese, German, Argentinean, etc.) in Paris? What is the role of the Designers Apartment?

There are not many international buyers in New York or London, so it’s normal that American and English designers welcome them in Paris. Designers Apartment, organized by our Fédération with support from DEFI, is a fresh chance each season to introduce new, creative brands working in Paris. This project also illustrates the ties between French manufacturing and brands with international ambitions. It’s proof of the industry’s inter-connectivity. Designers Apartment could continue for years to come.

For a long time haute couture and ready-to-wear were considered separate and even in opposition. Now, however, the situation seems to be evolving.

Haute couture’s energy is the first answer to your question. For a century haute couture houses excluded ready-to-wear from their activities. But since a few years ago houses can only make couture work if they take charge of their industrial activity. Couture has become the top layer of ready-to-wear. Alexis Mabille, Bouchra Jarrar, Alexandre Vauthier, Yiqing Yin and others use couture to produce what can only be handmade and ready-to-wear to produce what is best made by machine.