3 Questions for . . . Étienne Derœux, ceo and artistic director for the Étienne Derœux brand

After studies at the Antwerp Academy of Fine Arts and La Cambre School of Visual Arts in Brussels, Étienne Derœux quickly decided to set out on his own. At only 22 years old he started his line with the spring-summer 2012 collection. Today his collections are sold in 40 points of sale around the world. His influences are diverse, from sportswear to architecture. His elegant, modern collections are manufactured in Europe using quality materials.

Why, at 22 years old in 2011, did you decide to start your own brand?

There were several reasons why it was the right time for me. I had just come back from the United States where I had finished a project. My future partner had had a fashion consulting business there for quite some time. She had a good network for sourcing, suppliers, and subcontractors. She suggested we transform the consulting business into a brand. So, all those tools were available and I didn’t want to miss out on the opportunity.

In addition, I felt like there was a demand for new designers in Paris. I had the impression that there was a need, a desire for something new. And finally, I already had a clear vision for my brand and collection. I had always wanted to create my own label. I need to be independent in my private and professional lives; it’s my nature. Taking chances when starting out never bothered me much, and it bothers me less and less. I have a good time. I make clothes. I’m not saving lives! This has always been my passion and I want to experience it in my own way.

What kind of assistance did you get to start and develop?

The two Fédérations back me up: the Fédération Française du Prêt à Porter Féminin and the Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode. DEFI (the Committee for the Development and Promotion of French Clothing) is also there for me.

Priscilla Jokhoo, business services director for the Fédération Française du Prêt à Porter Féminin, counsels me almost every day. Patricia Lerat, publicity manager for the Designers Apartment showroom, has believed in me since the beginning. Clarisse Reille, DEFI general manager, also helps me. It’s not common enough knowledge in France, but there are structures and people who provide critical assistance. There’s both moral and logistics support. Thanks to the the Fédération Française du Prêt à Porter Féminin, we work with an accountant who knows the sector, and that changes everything. In fact, it opens doors for us. When faced with administrative problems, you can panic. But our contacts in these professional structures help us find solutions. This overall support means we save the time we already don’t have enough of.

What are the main difficulties and opportunities for a young designer today?

When I created my brand there was a youth trend in Paris. It was great to be part of it. Once again people started to think of Paris as a creative city. There were alternatives to the big houses. Paris seemed to be catching up to London and New York. Above all, I focus on opportunities, because all our lights are green. Our sales grow from season to season, along with our visibility. Stores buy and then come back to buy again. The Americans are good clients for us. The Japanese keep coming back. Even the French are loosening up. They’re becoming more curious and more open, and that’s positive. Globally, the market is less sluggish than in the past. We believe we need to create other models and reinvent the industry, for example, by looking into what we can do between wholesale and retail.

Otherwise, excepting cash flow problem, the main difficulty in France is the relationship between young fashion brands and banking institutions. They don’t understand our profession, cycles, or constraints. I’m on my fourth banker! Of course, there will always be problems. That will never stop, but the type of problem changes. So, we learn as we go forward and we become better.