3 questions for . . .

Michel Campan, president of SAME SAME but different

Ultra-connected Michel Campan moves frequently between Paris and China. He’s one of France’s digital pioneers. In 2000 he set up Hermès’ Internet department and e-commerce activity, which he managed for several years. In 2006 he served as interactive marketing and CRM director for Lancôme before going on to become Christian Dior Couture’s client marketing director in 2008. Since 2010 he has been the president of SAME SAME but different, a strategic and creative digital agency. The emphatically international agency has offices in Paris, New York, Hong Kong, and Shanghai.

Could you give us background on the fundamental changes the arrival of the Web and the development of social networks have caused for fashion brands?
The digital phenomenon is fairly recent; it started in the United States around 20 years ago and then took off in the 2000s. The standard digital strategy was to present the brand and then practice e-commerce. In 2004 and 2005 everybody was using digital tools, but it was still an era of exploration. We noticed a love-hate relationship between brands and digital technology.
Between 2006 and 2012 we saw the emergence of social media which started in forums. Then came Facebook, Twitter, and others, and we know how successful they were. At the same time, e-commerce was also developing. Around 80 percent of brands now have e-shops, but that requires investments and brings up important questions about organisation. In general, we observe that e-shops are primarily a showcase for brands. It was easier for them to get involved in social networks. And that’s what they did, especially by focusing on winning fans, without knowing, however, exactly what they were supposed to do with them. And finally, since 2012 we note that it’s services that are being promoted, even though they’re sometimes more complicated to manage than public relations.

What are French brands’ strengths and weaknesses with digital tools today?
Integrating digital operations correctly demands adaption and a reorganisation of internal structure.
In the United States, the digital manager is on the company’s board of directions. But for typical businesses in France, digital technology inspires little or no respect. There’s still a very rigid attitude when it comes to integrating digital technology. The sector, by nature, is constantly being updated with possibilities that are different from what we’re familiar with.
And yet, France has access to an incredible capital ‒ itself. The country, without doing anything in particular, is appreciated around the world. But it’s France that people love, not the French. The Asian culture has a strong relationship with France, but they also like the United States. In Asian markets, the Americans are the main danger for French brands. The Chinese like Chanel, but they also like Coach and Tory Burch, which they consider equivalents. But we, the French, still remain relatively haughty and closed. We’re creative in digital technology and fashion and this creativity is in our DNA, but we don’t take enough advantage of it.

What digital strategy would you recommend to French ready-to-wear brands who want to develop internationally? Should they put energy into e-commerce or a social network?
Brands and stores must stay in touch with their clients. Digital technology is a great way to do that, but they have to really pay attention to what they do and try and understand what’s going on around them and what the risks are. For example, it’s not because a new social network like Instagram is successful that Facebook is finished. And besides, the end customer wants service, always more service!
Internationally, China represents an enormous development potential. It’s no longer an emerging market. If brands don’t get involved there, even just to communicate, Chinese labels will take their place. So, for French houses presence is fundamental. That’s why we created our agency in Shanghai and Paris simultaneously; it’s already been six years ago.
To reach the Chinese market, brands have to establish their reputation. Becoming known happens through education and teaching methods. Brands need to tell their story and explain their distinctive characteristics and savoir-faire. For example, they have to be in Wikipedia or Baidu Baike (the Chinese equivalent) and on Wechat, and their website has to give clear information about where products are available.
It’s also important to communicate with the Chinese who travel. Today there are 100 million, and in four years there will be 400 million! France is their number two destination. They come with an €15,000 average budget to shop for themselves and their friends. The most basic courtesy would be to speak their language and organise rendezvous for them, in short, to offer services.

We’re lucky that French products are popular. Let’s make the most of it!