3 questions for...

Pascal Denizart, CETI general manager

Before being named CETI (The European Centre of Innovative Textiles) general manager in 2014, Pascal Denizart’s background included posts in the fashion and textile innovation sectors prior to working in the United States with textile applications using information technology. In 2011 he was appointed marketing and business development director for IFTH (the French Institute of Textile and Apparel) and began leading the IFTH/CETI working group in 2013. The group’s objective is to define the CETI offer and business development goals in coordination with IFTH services.

What are CETI’s missions and projects?
CETI is part of a business cluster dedicated to excellence; the cluster’s mission is to promote, bring together, and create textile innovations. The site includes the Up-Tex business pole; Clubtex, the club for businesses specialising in technical textile development; Innotex, the only textile incubator in France; Promotex, which promotes economic development for textile businesses; and the Uit-Nord (Northern Textile Industries Union) and Uric-Unimaille (textile manufacturers association) professional organisations.
The CETI technology and service platform works on applied research and product development, including creating the prototypes which are powerful examples of innovation. Our mission focuses on the two main axes of spinning and non-wovens, but we also integrate the engineering behind all textiles, from fibres to the finished product. Our influence, which begins with the creative energy of our Northern France region, is international. We bring together textile industry applications with the markets that use textiles. Another one of our priorities is to be more efficient and quick in terms of design and putting innovations into practical use. We need to move forward in virtualization, 3D techniques, and collaborative digital processes.
The CETI is one of the world’s few centres that can prototype all kind of fabrics and yarns. We have clients all over the world since our services are unique in Europe. Our work, in fact, centres on pushing forward the relevant ideas that can only come to life when their markets have been found.

Which major textile innovations do you think are the most important for fashion?
Smart clothing is regularly in the media. This is one of our focuses for research and innovation, but it’s not the only one. These e-textiles are part of the group we call ‘smart textiles’.
Many of their applications come from the medical and sports worlds, and these textiles have made great progress in those domains. But smart textiles can also be integrated into fashion apparel and accessories. In fact, it all depends on the desired function or use.
We hear more and more about smart accessories and clothing. Is this a commercial reality or just ‘marketing hype’? Do you think this kind of product can help inspire consumers to spend again?
Last October Archos presented its smart knitted beanie with integrated Bluetooth headphones and three hours of play time. It was out-of-stock by the next month. It was especially popular with young people, the product’s target. And another plus was the accessible €60 price tag. Three years ago Adidas brought out a T-shirt with a heart rate monitor; they’ve since sold five million!
Young people are permanently connected, so there’s a market and there are demands. The leading brands are coming up with products at affordable prices. And beyond the youth or athletic markets, these garments and accessories can tempt people looking for innovations and sensations. Fashion can really open up markets in this direction.

We get the impression that innovations have increased in recent years. What does that mean for the near future?
At CETI we also work with bio-based textiles which are part of the sustainable development movement. For these textiles, we don’t work exclusively with natural fibres. Remember that cotton has the very worst environmental reputation. Above all, we try to reduce the environmental footprint of these textiles as much as possible. We are especially interested in a bio-based polyester. Today, the polylactide fibres created from cornstarch are not yet resistant to high temperatures. We also conduct research on fibres from other cultures. The objective is to offer interesting alternatives to petroleum-based fibres.
Concerning smart textiles, today we’re concentrating on electroactive fibres as opposed to wearable technology with micro-electronics integrated into the structure of the textile. Within three to five years this initial innovation should produce a polymer filament that can create its own energy. Textiles will no longer be a support, but rather have the ability to act independently. We can imagine users recharging their smart phones with their jackets. Garments will produce light with applications for safety requirements or even media support.
It’s true, it’s all moving very quickly. And remember that Internet only dates from 1997 and the Iphone from 2008. Today our primary computer is our Smartphone, and its functions and ability to interact seem limitless.