3 questions for . . .

Patricia Brafman
International Director for the Fédération Française du Prêt à Porter Féminin

As the Fédération’s International Director for the past seven years, Patricia Brafman has become very familiar with the export challenges fashion brands face. Her numerous responsibilities include organising international trade shows, prospecting missions to countries with strong growth potential, seminars on export, French pavilions in the leading international trade shows, and more. And of course, she assists businesses with their export strategy. She is also an advisor to the DEFI (Committee for the Development and Promotion of French Clothing) Promotions Commission and a member of the Business France Labelling Committee.

What are the major changes you’ve seen in export over the past ten years?
Ten years ago, exports to European markets grew at a constant rate. Europe alone accounted for over 60 percent of French women’s ready-to-wear exports. Export outside of Europe was concentrated in three countries: the United States, Japan, and Russia. Russia seemed like an Eldorado to us. In the Chinese market, mid-range fashion brands were starting to understand its potential. I came to the Fédération in 2008, the year of the big international financial crisis. Just before, in 2007, French women’s ready-to-wear exports to European markets had grown by 13.2 percent in value. And then everything changed!
The slowdown was global, and export suffered greatly. In Russia, in particular, the reversal was brutal. That period was a turning point for the sector. For example, export to China increased 60 percent between 2009 and 2010. Of course, we started from next to nothing, but it was clear that we had to seek growth elsewhere and even far away. We encouraged businesses to quickly adapt to this new situation. We also extensively researched the different consumer behaviours in each country.

What are the most interesting opportunities for French brands today?
Europe is still our natural export market and represented almost 51 percent of women’s ready-to-wear exports in 2014. The United Kingdom has gotten back on track and Spain is holding steady. Northern Europe also shows demand for French women’s ready-to-wear.
In Asia, China and Hong Kong are still the key markets for France. Japan is stable, while Korea presents interesting opportunities, and brands can easily sign license agreements. These are good markets for creative young brands. The changes in Korea mimic what happens in Japan, especially in retail. And finally, the United States also works well, there’s been good recovery over the past two years.
The Fédération has also set up ‘Combat Groups’ which scout out new markets. We’ve already been to Algeria and Iran, and more recently to South Africa. These markets, though very different, have shown us that real opportunities exist that we can take advantage of. We take businesses with export experience on every trip and we put them in contact with key local industry and retail professionals and institutions. Our first trips produced results; a brand is planning on opening a boutique in Algeria the beginning of September and another is about to sign a very interesting contract with an Iranian partner.

Do you think the export situation has changed a lot in the last ten years? What do you think the priority market will be?
It’s no surprise, China will be the most important market for the next 10 years. For five years the Fédération has been active in China, organising French pavilions at the Chic trade show and prospecting missions in specific Chinese cities with excellent potential (Beijing, Shanghai, Canton, and Shenzhen for example). The results of these projects encourage us to continue.
In general, I advise brands to get assistance if they want to try to develop in new markets. In fact, I’m going to finish with a paradox. I advise fashion brands not to lose interest in their home market, France. This is not so much about turnover as image and being strong in your own country in order to have a solid base for export. We see it, for example, with Turkish brands. Those that export are in good shape because they’re successful in their home market.There’s no question about consumption in France today, it’s uncertain and difficult. But the image you have in your own country is essential, and that applies to export. It doesn’t make sense to neglect your home market and put all your energy into export. To develop internationally, you have to consider every parameter that makes up your business’s success.