3 questions for . . .
Christelle Kocher, Koché designer
These past few months have been very intense for Christelle Kocher. After working for around 10 years as a designer for the industry’s biggest names, she has taken the leap and founded her own brand, Koché, while still continuing as Artistic Director for the Maison Lemarié workrooms. Ms. Kocher, who receives support from the Fédération Française du Prêt à Porter Féminin, was one of the 26 semi-finalists for the 2nd edition of the LVMH Competition. She and three other French brands were short listed in February — a testament to her talent, given that no fewer than 1,000 candidates applied for the competition. From 6 to 12 March she’ll present her collection at the Designers Apartment showroom.
What was your professional background prior to creating your brand?
I graduated from Central Saint Martins School in London in 2002. At the final year fashion show I was approached by Giorgio Armani. In all the excitement I joined Emporio Armani before realising a few months later that I really wanted to devote my energy to a more creative, less classic label. Then I started to work with Martine Sitbon; for three years I designed collections and managed the workroom with her. It was a rewarding and amazing experience. Unfortunately it ended when the company encountered financial difficulties. After that, I went to Chloé as a flou (delicate fabrics) designer, and then spent a short period with Sonia Rykiel.
In 2009, when I was asked to become Dries Van Noten’s first assistant, I didn’t hesitate. It was very fulfilling to be part of such a fashion house, which also has the distinction of being independent. And finally, my latest experience designing for a brand was with Tomas Maïer, who I assisted in designing the Bottega Veneta women’s collection. At the same time I had been appointed Artistic Director for feather specialist Maison Lemarié where I worked very closely with the artisans. The goal was to bring fresh energy and new vision to the business, to wake it up. It was a real challenge for me since it was my first encounter with embroidery and plumasserie (feather arts). I started with them four years ago and I really want to continue. Today there are five times more employees and the house’s image is evolving.
Being in contact with all the Lemarié artisans was a real turning point for me and inspired me to create my own label. I launched my brand in September after deciding to end my contract with Bottega Veneta. I work closely with artisan fashion houses, and that month I presented my first collection in a showroom. I want to bring a less glorified and more comfortable, streetwear feeling to fashion. I have the capacity to make really beautiful, unique pieces. I challenge the artisans by asking them to work with materials such as jersey knits or other more sportswear fabrics.
What do you think about fashion today?
There’s a big minimalist wave that’s very Céline right now. Personally, I want to work with ideas about ornamentation, but not in an old fashioned, dowdy way. Generally, the very chic and luxury sectors are mostly limited to couture pieces or ‘red carpet’ evening gowns. I use fleece, jersey knits, and relatively strong colours. I think sportswear is becoming more and more common for every day. Women need clothes that go with active lifestyles. You could say I have similarities with Opening Ceremony’s Kenzo collection, and you wouldn’t be too far wrong. But I have a more luxe, ‘Made in France’ positioning with perfect finishing. Let’s say I’m more inspired by the cuts and very architectural designs of Madame Grès, Charles James, or Balenciaga. In fact, the content and the form of my work is different from Kenzo’s. My mission is to create very exclusive, impeccably manufactured pieces that have a soul. I believe in both value-added techniques that you don’t find everywhere, and comfort. To achieve that I mix languages and styles. I’m dedicated to maintaining French heritage, traditions, and the amazing story or our savoir-faire, while still being part of street culture. I live between Paris and New York and I’m very aware of urbane cultures.
Did you receive any specific help when you were starting out?
The Fédération Française du Prêt à Porter Féminin presents an assistance program with services for creating business plans, for brand positioning, and for communication. As a member, I was able to meet with them after I presented my first collection. The Fédération helps designers at every step and gives them advice. This also helps designers to step back and get fresh perspective on their work. I was also contacted by the Fédération Française de la Couture, again, after my first collection. I was chosen as one of the designers to present their collection in the following Designers Apartment Showroom in January during the Haute Couture shows, and again in March. Thanks to the first showroom, I signed with four buyers: two well known French names, Maria Luisa and the Montaigne Market manager, plus a boutique in America and another in Hong Kong. I also established contacts with buyers who will come back in March. Participating in the Showroom is an excellent springboard for my visibility as well as for increasing sales.